3 Weeks in Singapore - Where I Ate (Part 1: featuring local eateries)
My last trip back to Singapore was one of my most memorable one, food-wise. Because I haven’t been back in more than a year, cravings were intense. I spent almost everyday in search of food I miss and that are close to my heart. “3 Weeks in Singapore - Where I Ate” will be a series of posts: local eateries, hawker centres, and others. This post is dedicated to local eateries serving up Singapore favourites.
Killiney Kopitiam
67 Killiney Road
Mee Siam is a dish that is hardly found anywhere outside the Singapore region. I haven’t had this dish in 2 years!
Thin vermicelli noodles are doused in an orangey-red sauce that is slightly tangy and slightly sweet, and topped with beansprouts, dried beancurd pieces, a chilli concoction, and boiled egg. For a refreshing kick, squeeze the calamansi lime. This dish is typically eaten at breakfast or lunch time, and is a usual staple at Muslim-halal food stalls. Killiney Kopitiam is coffeeshop with Hainanese origins (a Chinese dialect) famed for simple breakfast favourites, such as Kaya Toast, fragrantly brewed coffee (kopi) and tea (teh), soft boiled eggs, and more.
Of course, a visit to Killiney Kopitiam would not be complete without having their signature Kaya toast. Traditionally, pillowy-white bread are lightly toasted over charcoal flames, resulting in a faint hint of smokiness and char. Being the oldest existing Hainanese coffee shop manufacturing their own kaya, expect nothing but sublimity in its simplest form.
Heng Long Teochew Porridge
240 Tanjong Katong Road
Singapore 437028
I drove to Tanjong Katong with massive cravings for Punggol Nasi Lemak. However, a Teochew Porridge stall - prominently occupying the space across the nasi lemak stall - distracted me. I didn’t remember it being there before. I used to patronise a Teochew Porridge stall at Upper Serangoon on a regular basis -after dining at this Tanjong Katong stall, I had great suspicion that they operate under the same establishment (I did not remember the stall’s name!). My suspicion was proven true with a quick google location search. That said, we did go back to Tanjong Katong for nasi lemak on a separate occasion -cravings were hard to ignore!
Teochew porridge stalls feature a vibrant array of home-style dishes that would accompany a plain bowl of rice porridge. Personal favourites include steamed fish, stir-fried bitter melon, steamed egg with minced pork and salted egg, and fish cake. Request for a bowl of dark braising sauce on the side -this will enhance the flavour of the porridge.
Blanco Court Fried Fish Noodles
325 Beach Road
Singapore 199559
Made a special trip to Beach Road just for fish soup -because it is worth traveling for. However, as we arrived at the location, the stall was gone. It was replaced by a wanton mee stall, Fatty Thai. My favourite fish soup stall is gone????? It can’t be. They were well-liked and favoured by the mass. The snaking queue attests to its popularity. What seemed like a tragedy soon turned into a state of relief. We did see a stall with a similar queue on the way to this location. Could it be….? YES!!!!!!!!!! They have moved from a small stall, within the coffeeshop at 341 Beach Road, to a larger and more intimate premise, few stores down the street. Its time-honoured, recognisable signboard confirms that. Glad they made that move -the space is brighter and roomier with more seats.
How do you like your fish soup? Some people prefer it with a splash of evaporated milk, some like it clear and light. I prefer the latter. For about $6, I had a combination of fresh fish slices and fried fish chunks, served in an umami-rich broth, alongside leafy spinach greens and deep-fried beaten egg. Don’t forget to dip the fish in the piquantly sweet and tangy chilli concoction for an extra kick!
It’s just a humble and simple bowl of fish soup, but it’s a perfect bowl of fish soup that warrants return visits.
Rochor Original Beancurd
2 Short St
Singapore 188211
Beancurd pudding, or what we would call Tau Huay, is one of Singapore’s best loved dessert! Traditionally, freshly made soft tofu is served with a ladle of syrup -you have the option of having an unsweetened version. Modern versions, popularised by Lao Ban, are much silkier, with a desirable amount of sweetness incorporated into the pudding. While it is delicious and barely resistible, it lacks that fresh beancurd flavour and texture that traditional Tau Huay possesses. Throughout my life in Singapore, I have gone back and forth with traditional and modern versions -they are undeniably beautiful in their distinctive ways. However, during this trip, I was bent on being a traditionalist. Our choice of the long-standing Rochor Original Beancurd was a no-brainer. Classic, unfailing.
G7 Sin Ma Live Seafood
5, Cheong Chin Nam Road
Singapore 599730
Another thing I miss about Singapore is the availability of good food round the clock. Dim sum, roti prata, fish ball noodles, Teochew porridge, barbecue stingray, nasi lemak, and the list goes on. Claypot frog porridge used to be an occasional supper affair when I was living in Singapore. Occasional, not because I don’t have cravings all the time, because I do have cravings for it all the time, but because many good frog porridge stalls are situated in Geylang. Geylang is a unique part of Singapore where it is especially lively at night, and does not exactly have the best reputation. I don’t mind lively, however, Geylang may not have the most ideal reasons for its vibrant atmosphere. Infamous for being a red-light district, its streets are lined with prostitutes and hungry patrons.
G7 Sin Ma Live Seafood is among the most well-liked frog porridge stalls in Geylang. They cleverly opened a second outlet outside of Geylang, at Bukit Timah. Since then, it has been my go-to place for frog porridge. Depending on my mood, I would order either the Kung Pao fried frog with a side of porridge, which is the most popular choice, or simply frog cooked in porridge. G7 Sin Ma executes the Kung Pao fried frog with flair. A feast for both the eyes and palate, the sizzling claypot and mesmerising aroma adds to the multi-sensory experience.
Heavenly Wang
53 Ang Mo Kio Avenue 3
#02‐58 Singapore 569933
Mee Rebus is a popular Malay dish comprising yellow noodles, thick gravy, dried beancurd chunks, green chilli, crackers, and boiled egg. It is hard to find mee rebus in New Zealand, much less a good one. This trip, Mee Rebus at Ang Mo Kio Food Centre was at the top of our agenda -Yunos N Family (at Blk 724 Ang Mo Kio Avenue 6, #01-01, Singapore 560724) being our favourite stall. Unfortunately, while we made it to Ang Mo Kio Food Centre, we missed the boat -we arrived too late and many stalls were closed by then. Mee Rebus cravings still sky high, I crumbled at the sight of Heavenly Wang’s offerings.
328 Katong Laksa
51 East Coast Road, Singapore 428770
Laksa is one of my favourite local dishes -albeit one of the most unhealthy one. Thick vermicelli is doused in an intensely aromatic, coconut cream-laden broth. A concoction of chillies, onion, galangal, spices, and more, the laksa paste hugely determines success or failure. When you can only choose one place for laksa, go to 328 Katong Laksa. Its laksa has gained the approval of the mass. Patrons include celebrities from the region and around the world -photos on the “wall of fame” - that stretches from one end of the wall to the other - attest to that. 328 Katong Laksa abolishes the typical way of eating noodles - with chopsticks or fork - by chopping up the noodles to lengths that are retrievable by a soup spoon. This way, noodles and broth can be enjoyed in one spoonful -a heavenly spoonful.
Old Street Bak Kut Teh
129 Upper Paya Lebar Rd
Singapore 435840
This trip, I had Bak Kut Teh not once, not twice, but three times! There are many great Bak Kut Teh stalls in Singapore, such as Founder Bak Kut Teh and Balestier Bak Kut Teh. I’ve been a frequent and loyal customer to Old Street Bak Kut Teh for several reasons. First, convenience! The Upper Paya Lebar Rd stall is pretty close to my home. Secondly, the stall is clean, spacious, and comfortable. Being tucked away from prime locations meant that customers can enjoy Bak Kut Teh in peace during off-peak hours. Thirdly, the food never disappoints. The quality has been consistent throughout my visits. Fourthly, genuine service. While the staff looked grouchy probably from being overworked, they demonstrated genuine care for customers' needs. Lastly, customers can have unlimited soup refills. In fact, most, if not all, Bak Kut Teh stalls offer free unlimited soup refills. Being an ultimate soup lover, I am so grateful for this!
Mei Heong Yuen Dessert
63-67 Temple Street
Singapore 058611
Mei Heong Yuen Dessert has received multiple accolades and has been featured in various media -it is one of Singaporeans’ favourite dessert shop. This dessert shop offers both hot and cold desserts that have decidedly Asian roots. Traditional desserts include as yam paste (Or Ni), Cheng Tng (a clear sweet soup), glutinous rice balls with sesame or peanut filling, and various nut pastes including almond, sesame, walnut, and peanut. To beat Singapore’s sweltering heat, Snow Ice options include soursop, sesame, almond, mocha, lychee, chendol, sweet corn, and more. As shown in the photo above, I had Milk Tea Snow Ice (foreground) and Mango Pudding (background). I love that the flavour of the ice is rich on its own, without the need for additional flavoured toppings, and the ice has such a fine and smooth finish.
Tai Cheong Bakery @ Holland Village
31 Lor Liput
Singapore 277742
While at Holland Village, we stumbled across this lovely and inviting Hong Kong style eatery (Cha Chan Teng) bustling with crowd. Our curiosity rewarded us with one of the most delicious egg tarts we had. With a limited stomach capacity, we did not have space for other savoury dishes that looked equally promising. The waitstaff that took care of us during our visit was thoughtful, polite, warm, attentive, and observant. He refused the tip we handed him, saying that it was part of his responsibility. When he finally accepted it after continued insistence, he placed it in the tip-sharing box at the counter. What an honest guy -any boss would be lucky to have hired a gem like him.
Glory
139E East Coast Rd
Singapore 428829
Glory -its glorious days persist. Glory is our favourite place to go for Peranakan food. Even when abroad, I am constantly reminded of Glory. Its Nonya kaya spread, sambal sauce, cookies, and other condiments are ubiquitous in Asian supermarkets around New Zealand. Glory’s Nasi Padang - featuring a wide array of cooked dishes that accompany plain rice - is what retains our loyalty. The chicken rendang is heavenly -the chunky and thick sauce is testament to the amount of ingredients and work that go into it. The Peranakan part of me approves of everything Glory does -because they do it with passion, integrity, tradition, and heart.
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